Apricot Countess - fruity majesty with the scent of summer

 Apricot Countess - fruity majesty with the scent of summer

Apricot Countess is a medium-ripening variety, one of the best for growing in the Moscow region. Differs in high annual yields, attractive fruits with nectar pulp and fruity aroma. Dessert fruits - used fresh as an independent fruit dessert. After heat treatment, they retain their taste and aroma, therefore they are also used for the preparation of seasonal preservation.

Description and distinctive features of apricot Countess

Variety Countess obtained from a seedling of its own generation 2-3 with free pollination. Highlighted by domestic breeders A.K.Skvortsov and L.A. Kramarenko in 1988. The originator is the Main Botanical Garden of Russia. Nikolai Vasilievich Tsitsin RAS. In 2004 it was included in the State Register for the central region.

The variety is adapted to the climatic conditions of the Moscow region and is promising for growing in the gardens of the Moscow region.

The tree has a high growth rate. The height of an adult apricot is 4.5–6 m, the crown is round, the foliage is dense. Annual shoots are not prone to branching. The color of the bark of the trunk and branches is dark brown, with a brown undertone. Young shoots are shiny, with a reddish-brown tint. Bears fruit on all types of shoots. The leaf blade is large, ovoid, the edge is serrated. The color of the leaves is rich, dark green. The flowers are small, 20–25 mm in diameter, and consist of five pink petals. Flowers bloom before leaves.

Apricot flowering of the Countess variety begins 2-3 days later than many other varieties

Fruits are oval, medium in size, weighing about 25 g. The color is pale yellow with a red or orange blush. The skin is thin, slightly pubescent. The pulp is dense, juicy, bright orange in color. The taste is sweet with a slight sourness, the aroma is rich. Evaluation of taste - 4.5 points on a five-point scale. The stone is large, well separated from the pulp. The kernel of the stone is bitter.

The Countess's fruits ripen in the middle of August.

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety - table

Large fruits.Dependence of fruit taste on weather conditions.
Early fruiting.Tendency to chop the fruit when the harvest is abundant.
High resistance to diseases and pests.In rainy weather, the risk of infection with clasterosporium and the occurrence of gum disease increases.
Good fruit transportability.
Abundant annual fruiting.
High tasting score of fruits.
Good winter hardiness.

Landing features

Before planting apricot varieties Countess, it is necessary to enrich the site with nutrients, since the tree is demanding on the composition of the soil.

When and where to plant

Planting dates for Apricot Countess depends on the climate. In the south, the tree can be planted both in spring and autumn. For the central and northern regions, planting in the autumn is preferable.

Apricot is a light-loving and thermophilic culture, therefore, the seedling must be placed in areas with free access to sunlight. Also, apricot does not like drafts and gusty winds.

Despite these requirements, apricots should not be planted on open southern slopes. In such conditions, early vegetation begins, which can reduce frost resistance. Low-lying areas with constant flooding or stagnant water are also not suitable for planting.

The best place for apricots is in the southern area near outbuildings or fences. In such a place, the tree will be well lit, but at the same time protected from cold winds.

Apricot grows well and bears fruit on sandy loam, loamy and light loamy soils. Sandy and clayey areas are not suitable. The acidity of the soil should be no more than 6–7 pH, groundwater should not be higher than 2.5 m.

The choice of planting material

For planting, one-year and two-year seedlings are used.

When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to the following points:

  1. The location of the branches. The presence of single ramifications is mandatory. The conductor must be pronounced. It is better not to purchase trees with branches located at an acute angle.
  2. Bark color. The bark on the trunk and branches should be brown.
  3. Kidneys. In the grafted varieties, double and triple buds develop in the first year.
  4. Appearance. The grafted varietal seedling should not have thorns, scratches and bumps.
  5. Roots. The root system should have many fibrous roots. The presence of dried roots is unacceptable.

It is recommended to purchase planting material in garden stores or nurseries.

A high-quality seedling along the surface of the trunk should not have any damage, cuts, cracks or scratches

Site preparation

Landing pits are prepared in advance. When planting an apricot seedling in the fall, the foundation pit is prepared in 15–20 days, in the spring planting - from the fall. If you plan to plant several trees, the pits are placed at a distance of 3 m between trees and 5 m between rows.

Dig a hole 60x60x60 cm in size.The soil is mixed with:

  • 20 kg of rotted compost;
  • 350 g superphosphate;
  • 250 g of potassium salt;
  • 150 g of wood ash.

A drainage layer (about 15 cm) should be poured onto the bottom of the pit. You can use expanded clay or medium fraction crushed stone. The pit is covered with a nutritious soil mixture, a layer of clean soil is poured on top.

Step by step process

Before planting the apricot, you need to cut off the damaged roots, and then dip the root system in a mash made from water, earth and mullein.

  1. In the prepared foundation pit, a recess 50x50x50 cm is dug.
  2. At the bottom of the pit, a bump is formed from the ground and a stake is driven into its center for support.
  3. A seedling is lowered into the pit. The root collar should be 5–7 cm above ground level.
  4. The root is carefully covered with the top layer of soil, slightly trampling the soil.
  5. A hole with a diameter of 50-60 cm is formed around the tree.
  6. Tie the seedling to the peg with a string.
  7. Water the plant with 20-30 liters of water.
  8. The hole is mulched with wood chips, pine needles or fresh soil.

In no case should the root collar of the seedling be deeply buried in the planting hole, otherwise the plant growth will be suppressed

After planting, a one-year-old seedling is cut at a level of 70–80 cm from the ground. On two-year-old seedlings, the shoots are cut, shortening them by 1/3.

Correct planting of a seedling - video

Are Pollinators Needed?

The Countess belongs to the self-fertile varieties of apricot. To improve the formation of the ovary, cross-pollination is necessary. To do this, use pollen mixtures or plant a tree next to varieties such as Lel, Favorit, Monastyrsky, Northern Triumph.

Artificial pollination gives very good results and significantly increases yields.

To attract bees and other pollinators at the beginning of flowering, you need to spray the trees with honey solution. For one tree, you will need 1 liter of warm water and 1 tbsp. l. honey. You can also hang small containers filled with sugar syrup on trees.

Pollinators for the Countess variety in the photo

Plant care

For good tree development, high yield and long-term fruiting, apricot needs careful care. It consists in pruning, feeding, treatment from diseases and pests. The main rule is timeliness. Only in this case the apricot Countess will delight gardeners with a regular harvest of tasty and aromatic fruits.


For Apricot Countess, spring pruning is most favorable. It is carried out in March. Pruning is not recommended in April and May.

In the first years of life, the tree forms a crown. The most common option is a sparse tiered form. To do this, leave 5-7 branches of the first order. The interval between each other is 35–40 cm.

  1. In the first year after planting, branches are cut, located at a level of 90 cm from the ground. Initially, two branches are cut by 1/2, which are located along the main row. All the rest are cut into a ring. The main conductor is left 20-25 cm above the main branches.
  2. In the next year, the second tier is formed. It is isolated at a level of 35–45 cm from the first. The subordination of the branches and the central conductor remains unchanged. The remaining branches are turned into overgrowing ones, shortening them by 1/3. Annual shoots, the length of which is 60 cm or more, are shortened by half. The growing small branches do not shorten. The center conductor is cut over the last growing branch.

Regular pruning of apricot is one of the most important conditions for a good harvest.

After the crown is formed and the tree has begun to bear fruit, regulatory, sanitary and thinning pruning should be carried out annually:

  • branches are cut into the ring with an angle of departure from the trunk of more than 45 degrees;
  • cut or shorten branches growing deeper into the crown, as well as located close to each other;
  • remove all branches affected by pests and diseases, as well as those damaged by frost;
  • shorten the center conductor if necessary.

You can restore the fruiting of old trees with the help of anti-aging pruning. It is carried out in the fall on trees over 7 years old. This procedure is aimed at enhancing growth and stimulating the appearance of young branches. Anti-aging pruning consists in thinning the peripheral part of the crown. Skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are cut for 5-6-year-old wood. At the same time, parts of semi-skeletal and overgrown branches are removed with transfer to lateral branches. All dried and thickening branches are cut out.

Important! All cuts are treated with garden varnish, ocher or soot.

Apricot pruning - video

Watering rules

Apricot does not tolerate drought well, but it also does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil, so it should be watered only as needed.

During the growing season, it is necessary to carry out three main watering:

  • during the flowering period;
  • during the period of active growth of shoots;
  • 2 weeks before harvesting.

Watering is carried out using drip irrigation systems or through grooves in the near-stem circle. The depth of soil moisture is 30–40 cm.

Podzimny watering is carried out in late autumn (a week before the onset of frost). The depth of moistening is 70–80 cm. If the groundwater is close, the soil is moistened by 40–50 cm.

After watering, it is recommended to mulch the near-stem area.


Top dressing of apricots must be carried out regularly, since the culture is very demanding on the composition of the soil. With a shortage of necessary components, the quality and volume of the crop decreases.

The first time fertilization is applied in 2-3 years, provided that the tree was planted in a prepared planting hole.

Basic fertilizers:

  1. Organic. Overripe manure is used once every 2-3 years. Norm - 5 kg per 1 m2... Chicken droppings (300 g per 1 m2) is introduced by mixing with compost or peat.
  2. Nitrogen. Introduce in early spring: during the flowering period, after flowering, after the ovary has fallen off. Urea or nitrate (35-40 g per 1 m2 near-trunk area) is evenly scattered over the area when loosening or digging.
  3. Potassium. Introduce during the ripening of the fruit, at the end of the growing season. 40% potassium salt (40-60 g per 1 m2) is scattered into the grooves of the near-stem area with a depth of 25-30 cm.

To compensate for the deficiency of trace elements (manganese, iron, boron) throughout the season, trees should be sprayed with complex fertilizers (Kemira, Kristalon, etc. according to the instructions).

Top dressing is applied annually. Doses are adjusted depending on the condition of the tree.

It is important to remember that excess nitrogen fertilizer can burn the roots, leading to the death of the tree.

Timely feeding of apricots is a guarantee of a plentiful and high-quality harvest

Frost protection

Apricot Countess is a variety that can withstand fairly low temperatures (up to -30 degrees), but the tree is prone to freezing of the lower branches and roots, so the plant should be prepared for the winter season.

Young trees are covered with cones. They are made from a wooden frame and wrapped in burlap, spunbond or canvas. The bottom of the cone is covered with earth.

In mature trees, it is enough to whitewash the trunk and lower branches with lime, mulch the near-stem area and wrap the stem with sacking.

Oilcloth and roofing felt cannot be used for wrapping. Condensation forms under them, which can contribute to the freezing of the tree.

Diseases and insect pests

Diseases of the apricot Countess and how to deal with them - table

DiseaseThe nature of the defeatProcessing periodControl methodsPrevention measures
Moniliosis (fruit rot)Fungal disease. It affects leaves, flowers, buds in the form of burns or gray rotten spots. Affected branches, along with flowers and young leaves, turn brown and dry out. Damaged fruits fall off or remain on the tree until the spring of next year and are a source of further infection.Spring period, as well as when signs of illness are found.
  1. Pruning and destruction of diseased areas of the tree.
  2. Processing of cuts with garden pitch.
  1. Autumn whitewashing of trees.
  2. Spraying trees with 1% Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate, 120 g of quicklime per 10 liters of water) or Horus fungicide.
Green cone phase.Spraying with 3% Bordeaux liquid.
Immediately after flowering.Spraying with Topsin M fungicide (10 g per 10 liters of water per one fruitful tree or 2 liters of solution per young tree).
CytosporosisFungal disease. It affects parts of the tree, starting from the top. Flowers and leaves turn brown, dry up, and remain on the tree for a long time. On the branches, the affected areas of the bark acquire a yellowish tint.When signs of illness are found.Careful examination and removal of dry branches with a common cytosporosis fungus in order to avoid further spread.
  1. Felling and burning trees infected with the fungus so that the disease does not spread to other trees.
  2. Regular whitewashing in early spring and autumn.
  3. Deep plowing and removal of root growth.
  4. Timely pruning of trees.
  5. Watering at the recommended time.
  6. Collecting and burning fallen leaves in the fall.
  7. Mulching the soil in the trunk circle.
Green cone phase.Spraying trees with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
Hole spot (clasterosporium disease)It affects the bole, branches, leaves and fruits. Rounded light brown spots appear on the leaves, surrounded by a red-brown or crimson border with a diameter of about 2–5 mm. After 7-15 days, the spots disappear, as a result of which holes are formed. In case of fruit damage, small purple, slightly depressed spots are first formed. Gradually they increase to 2–3 mm in diameter and take the form of wart-like brown swellings from which gum flows out.When signs of illness are found.
  1. Pruning and burning affected areas.
  2. Processing of cuts with a garden pitch with the addition of copper or iron sulfate.
  1. Regular fertilization.
  2. Spraying with 3% Bordeaux liquid before flowering and 1% after flowering.
  3. Autumn whitewashing.
  4. Cleaning the areas of the bark, from which the gum is released, with a sharp knife, followed by processing with a 1% solution of copper sulfate with garden pitch.
Period of swelling of the kidneys.Treatment of trees with copper oxychloride.
  • Before flowering;
  • at the end of flowering.
Trees treatment with fungicide Horus or Topsin M.

Photo gallery: apricot diseases

Apricot pests Countess and ways to combat them - table

Insect pestDescription and nature of the defeatProcessing periodControl methodsPrevention measures
AphidSmall dark insects. They damage the leaves, sucking out nutrients from them, which leads to curling and premature drying.When insects are found and until they are completely destroyed.Wood treatment with one of the solutions:
  1. Dilute 300 g of laundry soap in 10 liters of water.
  2. Dilute 100 g of tar soap in 10 liters of water.
  3. Boil 250-300 g of ash in 10 liters of water for 30 minutes. You can add 40 g of laundry soap before spraying.
  4. Insist 30 g of chopped onions in 1 liter of water for 5 hours. Add 5 g of laundry soap. Strain. Bring the volume of the infusion to 1 liter.
  5. Crush 250 g of Dalmatian chamomile flowers into dust, stir in water. Spray the tree immediately after preparing the solution.
  1. Treatment with fungicide Nitrafen or Karbofos until bud break.
  2. Planting aromatic herbs, nettles, siderates near trees.
  3. Fight against root shoots.
  4. Pruning and burning branches inhabited by aphid colonies.
Hawthorn caterpillarIn the spring, as soon as the buds begin to bloom, the caterpillars leave their winter nests and begin to feed, first gnawing the buds, and then move on to blossoming buds and flowers.
  • Early spring;
  • fall.
  1. Catching caterpillars and their subsequent destruction.
  2. Collecting cobwebs with clutches of eggs, which the insect lays in dry leaves.
  3. Spraying the tree with a solution of Chlorophos (20-30 g per 10 liters of water).
  1. Spraying trees with garlic or tobacco tinctures with the addition of laundry soap.
  2. Spraying with Spark preparation until bud break.
Plum moth caterpillarCaterpillars quickly eat into the fruit, make moves, filling them with excrement. The fruits damaged by the pest are prematurely colored and rotted.When tracks are found.
  1. Collecting and destroying caterpillars.
  2. Installation of trapping belts.
  1. Treatment of trees with Karbofos after flowering.
  2. Collection and burning of damaged fruits.
15–20 days after flowering.Spraying trees with Inta-Vir.

Harmful insects in the photo

Harvesting and storage

Trees begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The variety is highly productive - the yield from one five-year tree is 20-30 kg. Older trees can bear up to 60 kg of fruit.

Apricots of the Countess variety are harvested in mid-August. Harvesting is carried out in several stages, since the ripening of the fruits is not simultaneous. Apricots are harvested by hand in plastic or wooden containers.

If the summer is hot and dry, the Countess's fruits are clean, beautiful, weighing 20-25 g

The fruits of the Countess are distinguished by good keeping quality. For long-term storage, apricots are harvested slightly unripe. Each fruit is wrapped in paper and placed in a box in several layers. Boxes with cells can be used. In such a container, they are stored longer and perfectly tolerate transportation over long distances, without losing their visual appeal.

The fruits retain their freshness for 15-20 days at a storage temperature of +10 aboutFROM. At a temperature of 0 degrees and a humidity of 90–95%, fresh apricots are stored for 1–2 months. Also, the fruits can be stored frozen or in the form of dried fruits. In this case, apricots can withstand storage for up to 6–8 months.

The Countess is a dessert variety. Apricots are eaten fresh, used for the preparation of seasonal preparations. Compote, jam and preserves are especially tasty. The fruits are also used for the preparation of marmalade and confiture, dessert fillers, fillings for confectionery and baked goods.

Apricot Countess is a highly productive variety. The quality of the fruits, their tasting assessment, keeping quality and transportability are the main advantages of the variety. Today apricot Countess is more and more often found in personal plots, gaining recognition from gardeners and consumers, whose positive reviews justify its noble name.

Description and characteristics of the variety

A new type of strawberry was developed in 1995 by Dutch breeders. Scientists Hem Zaden and Yvon de Cupidou of the agronomic company Hem Genetics created Ali Baba from wild strawberries. The result is a strawberry variety that has many positive properties.

  • The variety can be grown in almost all regions of Russia.
  • Suitable for cultivation in the open field, in greenhouses, greenhouses and even on the balcony. The plant is planted in pots or small trays to decorate loggias, front gardens, curbs.
  • Ali Baba's strawberries refers to remontant varieties.
  • Fruiting from June to mid-autumn.
  • The bush has a strong, spreading stem and can reach a height of 16-18 cm.
  • Leaves are dark green in color. The plant forms many white inflorescences even in the first year.
  • The most striking feature of the Ali Baba variety is that the bushes do not form a mustache.
  • High productivity. During the season, up to 0.4-0.5 kg of tasty fruits can be harvested from 1 bush. From 10 bushes, 0.3 kg of strawberries are harvested every 3-4 days.

Advice! To make the fruit yield richer with late harvests, it is recommended to break the peduncles of the first wave. In this case, the plant will become especially strong and developed, and the next waves of fruiting will be abundant.

  • Unpretentious variety, tolerates drought and cold well. He is also unpretentious to various types of soil. Ali-Baba's strawberries are successfully grown in a continental climate, in the Central zone of the Russian Federation, the Moscow region and other regions.

Planting apricot varieties Countess

Planting an apricot of this variety will not cause difficulties for an experienced gardener and is quite within the power of a beginner. How to plant a tree correctly and avoid mistakes at the same time - in the step-by-step instructions below.

    The first thing that begins the process of planting any tree, including apricot Countess, is the choice of a suitable place. Although the variety has a high frost resistance, in the first years it needs protection from cold winds and freezing. To do this, it is better to choose a place on a southern or southwestern small slope (10-15 °), protected from the wind by natural barriers, for example, trees, buildings, a fence. If there are none, the young seedling will have to be covered with spunbond for the winter or a hut made of branches, film or other improvised means should be equipped around it.

Young apricot trees Countess for the winter need to be sheltered from frost and hares

  • For spring planting (namely, at this time it is best to plant an apricot), seedlings should be purchased in the fall, during a period when there is a massive trade in planting material. Choose healthy plants one to two years old with well-developed roots.
  • For storage, the roots of the seedlings are dipped in a mash made of red clay and mullein in approximately equal proportions, placed in a humid environment, for example, wrapped in wet burlap, and in a plastic, loosely closed bag, they are lowered into a cellar or basement. And you can also store the seedlings buried in the ground, covering them for the winter with spruce branches, snow, etc. Do not get the seedlings prematurely in the spring. This is done just before planting, since the seedlings must remain dormant so they will take root better.

    This is how they add seedlings for the winter

  • Planting pits are also prepared in the fall. The size of the hole should be at least 70–80 cm deep and the same in diameter. Part of the soil from the upper, fertile layer is returned to the bottom of the finished pit. Then there you need to add several buckets of humus or compost (you can do both), a couple of liters of wood ash and 300 g of double superphosphate. Mix everything well and cover it with some waterproof material until spring for better preservation of nutrients.
  • In the spring, before the start of sap flow, but when the threat of return frosts has passed, they start planting. On the mound formed in the pit, the root collar of the seedling is placed so that it is several centimeters below the soil level, and the roots are straightened around the mound. It should be remembered that the vaccination site should not be buried. Apricots often suffer from damping, so the grafting should be no lower (or better above) 5 cm above the soil surface. After that, carefully fill the hole with earth, slightly tamping it.

    The root collar of the apricot seedling is placed on top of the mound and the roots are carefully straightened

  • Now you need to make a near-trunk circle with an earthen roller along the diameter of the hole and water the tree well.
  • The last step is to cut the seedling to a height of 60–80 cm and tie it to a peg previously driven in next to it. If there are twigs, shorten them by a third.

  • Landing features

    The apricot is planted in a prepared area. If necessary, improve the quality of the soil.

    Recommended timing

    Planting dates depend on the region of cultivation of the Kichiginsky apricot. In cold climates, planting work is carried out in early spring before bud break. In the south, work is carried out in early October so that the seedling takes root before winter.

    In the middle lane, spring and autumn planting is allowed. It is necessary to focus on weather conditions.

    Choosing the right place

    A place for planting a culture is chosen taking into account a number of requirements:

    • lack of frequent winds
    • flat area
    • fertile loamy soil
    • natural light throughout the day.

    In the lowlands, the tree develops slowly, because it is constantly exposed to moisture. The crop also does not tolerate acidic soil, which must be limed before planting.

    What crops can and cannot be planted next to an apricot

    Apricot does not get along well with shrubs, berry and fruit crops:

    • currant
    • raspberries
    • Apple tree
    • pear
    • plum
    • hazel.

    Apricot is removed from other trees at a distance of 4 m. It is best to plant a group of apricots of different varieties. Perennial shade-loving grasses grow well under the trees.

    Selection and preparation of planting material

    Saplings of the Kichiginsky variety are best purchased in nurseries. Annual trees with a strong root system are suitable for planting. The seedlings are examined and specimens are selected without signs of decay or damage.

    Before planting, a talker is prepared from mullein and clay. When the solution reaches the consistency of sour cream, the roots of the seedling are dipped into it.

    Landing algorithm

    The apricot planting process consists of the following stages:

    1. A hole with a diameter of 60 cm and a depth of 70 cm is dug on the site. The dimensions may vary depending on the size of the plant.
    2. A drainage layer of small pebbles is poured onto the bottom of the pit. The pit is left for 2 weeks to shrink.
    3. Humus, 500 g of superphosphate and 1 liter of wood ash are added to the fertile soil.
    4. The seedling is placed in a hole, the roots are covered with earth.
    5. The soil is tamped, and the planted apricot is watered abundantly.

    Follow-up care of the culture

    Apricot Kichiginsky is fed in early spring. The soil under the tree is watered with a mullein or urea solution. In the formation of fruits, the culture requires potassium-phosphorus compositions.

    Trees do not need frequent watering. Moisture is introduced during the flowering period if constant hot weather is established.

    To obtain a high yield, shoots older than 3 years are pruned. Be sure to remove dry, weak and broken branches. Pruning is done in the spring or late autumn.

    Roofing material or netting helps to protect the tree trunk from rodents. Young apricots are additionally covered with spruce branches for the winter.

    Reviews of gardeners about the North Triumph

    On a neighboring plot, an apricot of the Triumph Severny variety has been growing for 5 years. A tall, strong tree, this summer about 3 kg of fruits were collected from it, quite large and tasty. In addition to all other advantages, it is also self-fertile. IMHO, this variety is most suitable for our conditions.

    aprel = 2011

    I also planted different apricots, Alyosha and the northern Triumph bent right away or a year later, I don't remember who was the first.

    Dasha = 2011

    Apricot varieties for the Moscow region: the most famous and easiest to get is the Northern Triumph.


    Northern Triumph, like any apricot, requires special care when grown in an unusual climate for it. However, all the efforts of the gardener will pay off with a good harvest of large and aromatic fruits.

    Watch the video: Spring Perfumes 2021. Dupe for Marc Jacobs Perfect and a Wildcard Perfume